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At first this is all chalk and acid, as severe as the sun glaring off Santorini's whitewashed houses. But then an aftershock of fruit floods the mouth, the lemony flavors turning juicy and almost honeyed in their intensity. The acidity remains crunchy all the while, a mouthwatering contrast if you open it now, and a promise of freshness if you choose to cellar it. I would do both, buying enough to lay down for another 10 years.
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