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Like all of J.J. Prüm's 2012s, this gives no hint of its prodigious flavor in its pale, star-bright color. And it does kick off with a considerable whiff of matchstick. But once the air clears, the fruit wells up, pouring out flavors of stone fruits complete with their almond-toned pits. Long and expansive, it holds to a firm, mineral line, and lasts with an energy that makes the flavor feel like it's never going to end. This is the sort of wine that you want cases of, to open one yearly over the next quarter-century.
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