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Intriguing notes of crushed stone and iodine mingle with blackberry and cherry in the nose of the Moulin-a-Vent Clos de Rochegres, from a site that features thin, iron-rich soil over hard granite mother rock at the summit of its appellation. This has a very different shape from any of its stable mates, round and enveloping, yet at the same time exhibiting vibratory energy, and depth of marrow and mineral matter, not to mention sweet fruit. Palate-staining in its persistence, this memorable and extraordinary value should prove a monument to its vintage worth following for many years.
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